Solar Hot Water … Don’t Make a Bomb!

I’ve done a lot of reading lately as I layout the plumbing for our home.

The funniest statement I read became the title of this post … let’s try not to kill ourselves while building our dream home!

Before I dive into the solar heated water I want to back up a bit … what I have been doing over the last few weeks is try to come up with a plumbing plan for this building.  This has proved far more complicated than I anticipated; I don’t have extensive experience in plumbing, and many of the systems going into this house are not typical.  Regardless, stuff happens and apparently it also flows down hill … how hard can it be?

The plumbing for this project includes:

  • Domestic water supply,
  • Grey water planters,
  • Septic system and associated plumbing,
  • Solar hot water heating,
  • Radiant floor heat

Domestic water supply

The domestic water supply for our house includes the following fixtures:

  1. kitchen (sink, dishwasher although we may not install one, we wanted to have the hook-ups)
  2. main bathroom (tub, sink, washing machine, toilet)
  3. ensuite bathroom (shower, sink, toilet)
  4. Hot Water (tank?)
Other than identifying the fixtures listed above I have not done a lot of thinking about the water supply yet …
A 1″ line enters our house at the back of the utility U and will probably run underground to the main bathroom before being distributed to the various fixtures listed above.

Grey water Planters

Here again not a lot of thought has gone into the final design of the planters.

We have chosen to set the highest point of the planters at the east edge of the building and slope them down to the west edge of the building.  This means the flow of grey water is set and we need to get all of the grey water from the plumbing fixtures to the east-most planter.  To accommodate this layout our bathrooms will probably be a step-up from the rest of the floor plan … this will (hopefully) give us the height we need to get the grey water to the east edge of the building.

The other choice was to set the lowest planter in the middle of the building and have the grey water run to this point from two directions … this seemed more complicated and frankly we did not plan for this early enough … the benefit of this layout would have been smaller elevation changes due to shorter travel distances (possibly no step-up into the bathrooms).

Septic System and Associated Plumbing

This is actually where I started thinking about the plumbing … unlike everything else in this building a septic system has well defined code requirements and is fairly straight forward to implement.

The waste pipe layout is complicated by the need to separate out the grey water flow from the flow from the black water fixtures and run it to the grey water planters.  In our layout the grey water flow will be valved; it will either flow to the grey water planters or out to the septic tank.  This means that we are compliant with the building code, and did not have to try and prove that we did not need a code compliant septic system for this building.  We had an existing septic tank and field on our site and to get a permit we just had to have a certified septic installer o.k. our system.

Solar Hot Water Heating

There are a lot of options to consider when using solar heat, and everybody seems to be pushing their design as the greatest thing since sliced bread.  Added to this, the BC Building code (I believe this is similar across Canada) places restrictions on what you can use … all of this makes specifying a system challenging.

For a good introduction on different solar options this article helped me.

I found the following questions (taken from the website that warns against making a solar bomb) to be helpful …

The Fundamental Questions

  • Does the proposed system operate at low temperatures? Solar collectors are not very efficient at temperatures of 180°F.
  • Has the need for storage of solar energy been considered?
  • How will excess heat be handled?
  • How will the need for freeze protection be handled?
  • What will happen if the electric power fails in the middle of the day?
  • What will happen when the power comes back on after a period of stagnation?
  • If something goes wrong, will the system fail to a safe condition
    (fail safe)?
  • How will the occupant know if the system is not working properly?

Keeping these questions in mind the first system that occurred to me was an open-loop system that relied on a thermosiphon to pump the water around.  Confused yet?  This compares to a closed-loop system with glycol (antifreeze) and an electrical pump.  Read on … it gets worse!

We have already identified the need to block at least the lower half of our bathroom windows … its a privacy thing.  It occurs to me that this window space could be ideal for solar collectors … I even picked out evacuated tube solar collectors … these babies would obscure the view without completely blocking the sunlight … sort of like frosted glass … only functional!

By placing these tubes inside the building envelope (using the window glass as a cover) we could eliminate the need for a closed glycol loop.  In fact, the system could be an open loop thermosiphon … eliminating glycol, a heat exchanger and the need for a pump … talk about elegant.  What is holding me back from embracing this design whole-heartedly is two considerations:
  1. Will the lines close to the glass risk freezing at night, or if the building is un-occupied for an extended period of time?  Our building interior has not dropped below freezing in the two years it has been standing, but we have seen frost build up on the windows … a pipe close to the windows may risk freezing.
  2. Will the system generate a lot of undesirable waste heat in the building envelope during the summer months?

I am still tossing this idea around … variations on it are used in warmer climates.

With those considerations in mind the system that is currently winning is shown in the following image.

The solar panels are on the roof so it is a close-looped system and would use an anti-freeze solution in the heat exchange loop.  The necessity for an electric pump is eliminated by using a bubble pump … a solar pump that pumps when the sun is out by establishing a thermosiphon loop.  This pump is passive in that it works when the collectors are heated by the sun and shuts down when the sun is gone … which is pretty much when you want to pump … eliminating the need for an electric pump and a controller.

The hot water tank is used for storing the solar heat.  The tank could have an electric backup element or be propane … meaning that you will always have hot water … I still have not figured out which is the better option.

Radiant Floor Heat

We plan to have radiant floor heat in the high-use floor spaces of the earthship.  My intention is to use the solar heated water for the heating loops.

I am still trying to work this out but will look something like:

This means that the hydronic heating loops will not be passive, an electric pump will be used to move the water.  I have read about using a thermosiphon loop for this, but they still had a backup pump in case bubbles blocked the thermosiphon … so I do not think making this an active loop is a bad idea.  Our intention is to use a wood gasifier to produce electricity … the gasifier will also generate a lot of heat and I see it being primarily responsible for providing heat for the radiant floor system.  I have not shown it in this diagram because I am still wrapping my head around how it will be implemented.

Still a lot more to figure out here but this is a start.

I am curious what other people have done or come up with …

I will try to keep posting my design as it evolves … I am currently overwhelmed by the slope of this task and writing about it helps to clarify my thoughts.

Greywater, Plumbing and Helpful Resources

I’ve been designing the plumbing and grey water for our earthship over the last week … so I have been doing a lot of reading.

A few things have caught my attention during this process.

First, more recently written books in this space (green building, grey water design) are much more detailed than a couple of years ago.  When I first started investigating our house project I was able to find maddeningly little detailed information or knowledge about what we were undertaking … its one of the reasons we started blogging.

I am happy to say that this seems to be changing.  I have started reading Green from the Ground Up By David Johnston and Scott Gibson.    This book does not delve deeply into any one topic but it does a good job of designing ‘green’ from the start and making sustainable design decisions through the course of the entire project.  I have only read parts of the book that are relevant to what I am doing right now but I am pleased with my purchase so far … it is reminding me of issues that need to be addressed!

Even more impressive is a plumbing primer provided by the city of Winnipeg for home owners about to embark on a project involving plumbing.  More impressive because it is free and it does a good job of reducing complex code requirements to useful rules of thumb.  Plumbing code specifications will vary depending on your jurisdiction  but this is an excellent 101 class on plumbing … and did I mention it is free!

Does anybody have a reference they have been impressed with?   I am always looking for better information.

Back to slogging through Part 7 of the BC Building Code …

Pulling the Delica Engine … Started

Actually started to dismantle the engine today.

I recorded all of these steps as I was doing the work … I want something that tells me where everything goes back.

Started by pulling following items out of the engine bay:

  1. Battery,
  2. intercooler with hoses and clamps,
  3. air filter with hose and clamp,

Took following off of front of van:

  1. bull board (3 17 mm bolts underneath, 4 12 mm bolts on front covered by plastic boots)
  2. front turn signal light units (one screw at top),
  3. front trim (radiator grill) with mitsubishi symbol in centre (uses plastic fasteners,  5 broken fasteners … most already broken)
  4. Wheel well splash shields … did not completely remove … just enough to drop it out of way of work area (2 screws and lots of two piece plastic fasteners … some broken)
  5. under cover panels (only one plastic connecter to frame of van … lots of plastic connecters that also fasten bumper and splash shield)
  6. front bumper (all bolts … the bolts at both ends (x4) were totally rusted … all 4 broken coming off) (left all fasteners for splash shields, panels and bumper in one of panels)

Drained the radiator.

March 30th …

Carried on with pulling items off the front of the engine compartment this morning.  Pulled the following:

  1. radiator – remember to re-attach transmission fluid lines and check level,
  2. air conditioning fan unit (five bolts, two electrical connections) (need glue to re-attach some of the foam that has come loose),
  3. front support T (frame) … took it off in two pieces so could work upper part around fasteners for headlights … tight fit.
  4. checked air conditioning system for pressure … no pressure … no surprise … we have not had air conditioning since purchasing van this fall … was going to look at it before summer … imagine I will be looking at it fairly soon …
  5. air conditioning condensor … wrapped lines to prevent moisture
Started pulling accessories off of engine:
  1. removed fan from engine.  Blue dot should be visible when re-installing.
  2. removed alternator, back bolt hard to get at, had to remove belts, inside belt needed tensioner loosened…installs right above fuel filter…replaced bolts in housing.  Loosened tensioner and removed two belts from pulley
  3. removed 2-bolt exhaust manifold from underneath (detached bracket attaching exhaust to transmission case … need to make sure I re-attach it) (Do not lose gasket for this manifold!)
  4. unwound alternator electrical line from engine  and marked electrical connections A-H
  5. Disconnected air compressor electrical line (Labelled it I)
  6. Disconnected two hoses attached to power steering pump … did not pull pump as it is bolted to engine face … not belt driven as shown in shop manual … twisted hose coming out of side of power steering reservoir to get it out of the way
  7. pulled air conditioner pump from bottom right side of engine, removed two hoses before pulling it, loosened tensioner and removed single belt from pulley, wrapped lines
  8. Removed two throttle lines from injection pump … loosened and moved screws closest to engine … red line goes on outside edge
  9. Pulled hose and fitting attached to top of Injector pump … guess line is a vacuum line and labelled it as such
  10. removed fuel in/out lines from injector pump, labelled front and back due to relative positions
  11. disconnected heat sensor from injector line (for WVO)
  12. Removed 3/4″ coolant lines coming off upper tee of back passenger side of engine … left tee fitting in engine.

March 31st:

Continued pulling items off of the engine:

  1. removed 2 bolts attaching transmission dipstick to engine … did not remove dipstick from transmission … do I need to?
Stopped to pull windshield wiper assembly from top of engine compartment … should have done this long time ago …
  1. Removed cap and bolt holding each wiper (passenger side wiper sits below driver side wiper on window) and removed wiper arms,
  2. disconnected electrical to wiper motor … had to cut after market line (red) … will need to solder this line later.
  3. pulled weather strip and popped moulding loose that sits above bay,
  4. Removed 5 bolts holding motor assembly to top of bay and 3 bolts holding each end of assembly (underneath wiper arms) (11 bolts total)
  5. Removed wiper motor assembly … very difficult … the passenger side end should be fed in first on re-installation.
Back to pulling items from engine compartment:
  1. Removed coolant line from lower fitting at back passenger side of engine (coolant line has two red or orange circles on it)
  2. disconnected line to pump on front face of engine (above idler for air compressor pump) … not sure what this pump is … steel line tons around side of engine and bolts on …. disconnected one smaller line that feeds off from this line separately (vacuum?)
  3. Detached two electrical lines to starter … starter is tucked underneath injection pump
  4. removed observation plate to access torque converter bolts … 4 10 mm bolts … akward … no rubber spacer?
  5. removed 6 bolts from torque converter
  6. Removed 13 bolts between transmission and engine; 2 longest bolts hold starter in place , next two longest bolts go in the top two positions,  total of 13 bolts, bracket goes in bolt location closest to exhaust (bracket supports exhaust)
  7. Removed 4 motor mount bolts total (14 mm) – tricky to get at … had to use long extension with buckle to get back passenger bolt
  8. Attached chain to two lifting points on engine and lifted out of van
  9. Only item left attached was block heater electrical cord … detached it.
April 3rd:
  1. Degreased replacement engine,
  2. Installed frost plug block heater in replacement engine,
  3. Replacement engine is either for a ’95 or because it was for a standard transmission did not have overdrive sensor … swapped engine fitting (including overdrive sensor) from old engine,
April 4th:
  1. Replaced fuel filter while engine was out of the way,
  2. hoisted engine back into engine bay; removed oil filter and drain pan plug for better clearance through front of van,
  3. Lined engine back up with transmission … being careful of sensors below engine on front axle,
  4. bolted engine mounts back onto van frame (x4 bolts … left loose for now),
  5. Bolted transmission to engine … started with two bolts w/ alignment liners … threaded all bolts into transmission and left loose,
  6. put starter back in place (very difficult to feed started down beside mounted engine … would have been better to have starter loosely in place when engine was slid into place) … loosely bolted starter in place,
  7. Snugged all bolts  connecting engine to transmission to required torque (in alternating pattern),
  8. Snugged motor mount bolts to required torque,
  9. bolted torque converter to engine flywheel (in clockwise orientation to avoid damaging engine timing chain) … went back and tightened to required torque (again going clockwise)
  10. Reattached exhaust to engine (2 bolt manifold … remembered to put gasket back in)

 

April 5

Started working backwards.  A 12mm racketing wrench would be good  Remember to make sure air conditioning  connections seat.  We had to pry on end in to seat it before the bolt would close up.  Air conditioning unit tight fit but easier than putting the starter back.