Pulling the Delica Engine … Started

Actually started to dismantle the engine today.

I recorded all of these steps as I was doing the work … I want something that tells me where everything goes back.

Started by pulling following items out of the engine bay:

  1. Battery,
  2. intercooler with hoses and clamps,
  3. air filter with hose and clamp,

Took following off of front of van:

  1. bull board (3 17 mm bolts underneath, 4 12 mm bolts on front covered by plastic boots)
  2. front turn signal light units (one screw at top),
  3. front trim (radiator grill) with mitsubishi symbol in centre (uses plastic fasteners,  5 broken fasteners … most already broken)
  4. Wheel well splash shields … did not completely remove … just enough to drop it out of way of work area (2 screws and lots of two piece plastic fasteners … some broken)
  5. under cover panels (only one plastic connecter to frame of van … lots of plastic connecters that also fasten bumper and splash shield)
  6. front bumper (all bolts … the bolts at both ends (x4) were totally rusted … all 4 broken coming off) (left all fasteners for splash shields, panels and bumper in one of panels)

Drained the radiator.

March 30th …

Carried on with pulling items off the front of the engine compartment this morning.  Pulled the following:

  1. radiator – remember to re-attach transmission fluid lines and check level,
  2. air conditioning fan unit (five bolts, two electrical connections) (need glue to re-attach some of the foam that has come loose),
  3. front support T (frame) … took it off in two pieces so could work upper part around fasteners for headlights … tight fit.
  4. checked air conditioning system for pressure … no pressure … no surprise … we have not had air conditioning since purchasing van this fall … was going to look at it before summer … imagine I will be looking at it fairly soon …
  5. air conditioning condensor … wrapped lines to prevent moisture
Started pulling accessories off of engine:
  1. removed fan from engine.  Blue dot should be visible when re-installing.
  2. removed alternator, back bolt hard to get at, had to remove belts, inside belt needed tensioner loosened…installs right above fuel filter…replaced bolts in housing.  Loosened tensioner and removed two belts from pulley
  3. removed 2-bolt exhaust manifold from underneath (detached bracket attaching exhaust to transmission case … need to make sure I re-attach it) (Do not lose gasket for this manifold!)
  4. unwound alternator electrical line from engine  and marked electrical connections A-H
  5. Disconnected air compressor electrical line (Labelled it I)
  6. Disconnected two hoses attached to power steering pump … did not pull pump as it is bolted to engine face … not belt driven as shown in shop manual … twisted hose coming out of side of power steering reservoir to get it out of the way
  7. pulled air conditioner pump from bottom right side of engine, removed two hoses before pulling it, loosened tensioner and removed single belt from pulley, wrapped lines
  8. Removed two throttle lines from injection pump … loosened and moved screws closest to engine … red line goes on outside edge
  9. Pulled hose and fitting attached to top of Injector pump … guess line is a vacuum line and labelled it as such
  10. removed fuel in/out lines from injector pump, labelled front and back due to relative positions
  11. disconnected heat sensor from injector line (for WVO)
  12. Removed 3/4″ coolant lines coming off upper tee of back passenger side of engine … left tee fitting in engine.

March 31st:

Continued pulling items off of the engine:

  1. removed 2 bolts attaching transmission dipstick to engine … did not remove dipstick from transmission … do I need to?
Stopped to pull windshield wiper assembly from top of engine compartment … should have done this long time ago …
  1. Removed cap and bolt holding each wiper (passenger side wiper sits below driver side wiper on window) and removed wiper arms,
  2. disconnected electrical to wiper motor … had to cut after market line (red) … will need to solder this line later.
  3. pulled weather strip and popped moulding loose that sits above bay,
  4. Removed 5 bolts holding motor assembly to top of bay and 3 bolts holding each end of assembly (underneath wiper arms) (11 bolts total)
  5. Removed wiper motor assembly … very difficult … the passenger side end should be fed in first on re-installation.
Back to pulling items from engine compartment:
  1. Removed coolant line from lower fitting at back passenger side of engine (coolant line has two red or orange circles on it)
  2. disconnected line to pump on front face of engine (above idler for air compressor pump) … not sure what this pump is … steel line tons around side of engine and bolts on …. disconnected one smaller line that feeds off from this line separately (vacuum?)
  3. Detached two electrical lines to starter … starter is tucked underneath injection pump
  4. removed observation plate to access torque converter bolts … 4 10 mm bolts … akward … no rubber spacer?
  5. removed 6 bolts from torque converter
  6. Removed 13 bolts between transmission and engine; 2 longest bolts hold starter in place , next two longest bolts go in the top two positions,  total of 13 bolts, bracket goes in bolt location closest to exhaust (bracket supports exhaust)
  7. Removed 4 motor mount bolts total (14 mm) – tricky to get at … had to use long extension with buckle to get back passenger bolt
  8. Attached chain to two lifting points on engine and lifted out of van
  9. Only item left attached was block heater electrical cord … detached it.
April 3rd:
  1. Degreased replacement engine,
  2. Installed frost plug block heater in replacement engine,
  3. Replacement engine is either for a ’95 or because it was for a standard transmission did not have overdrive sensor … swapped engine fitting (including overdrive sensor) from old engine,
April 4th:
  1. Replaced fuel filter while engine was out of the way,
  2. hoisted engine back into engine bay; removed oil filter and drain pan plug for better clearance through front of van,
  3. Lined engine back up with transmission … being careful of sensors below engine on front axle,
  4. bolted engine mounts back onto van frame (x4 bolts … left loose for now),
  5. Bolted transmission to engine … started with two bolts w/ alignment liners … threaded all bolts into transmission and left loose,
  6. put starter back in place (very difficult to feed started down beside mounted engine … would have been better to have starter loosely in place when engine was slid into place) … loosely bolted starter in place,
  7. Snugged all bolts  connecting engine to transmission to required torque (in alternating pattern),
  8. Snugged motor mount bolts to required torque,
  9. bolted torque converter to engine flywheel (in clockwise orientation to avoid damaging engine timing chain) … went back and tightened to required torque (again going clockwise)
  10. Reattached exhaust to engine (2 bolt manifold … remembered to put gasket back in)


April 5

Started working backwards.  A 12mm racketing wrench would be good  Remember to make sure air conditioning  connections seat.  We had to pry on end in to seat it before the bolt would close up.  Air conditioning unit tight fit but easier than putting the starter back.

Pulling the Delica Engine … how?

Spent the day on wednesday trying to figure out how to pull the engine.  This is pretty technical … I am recording it more so that I have a plan on how to proceed with pulling the engine out of the van than with the expectation that anybody will read this … unless you’ve seized your engine …

Regardless, this is what I came up with after a lot of looking.  The pictures are not mine … I referenced the sites they came from at the bottom of the post … I listed them here more for a general idea of what needs to happen:

1. As components are being removed disconnect associated wiring.

  • tag wires with masking tape for re-attachment
  •  make sure wiring is tucked well back before moving engine

2. Remove items in engine compartment, including:

  • intercooler,
  • battery,
  • air filter,
  • wiper motor assembly (5 bolts) (remove windscreen mechanism from above engine … levers will unclip and leave a few bars ???)

3. Disassemble front of engine bay compartment.  This includes removing:

  • bullbar
  • bumper (mounting bolts behind park lights, remove lights to get at bolts?) (see 51-3 in Shop Manual)
  • AC fans and condenser (charge when re-assembled) (see 55-75)
  • grill (see 51-5)
  • 14-16 radiator + support panel (disconnect auto transmission pipes in front of radiator)
  • Panels
  • ???

4. Strip accessories off of engine (can leave some in bay?)

  • starter
  • alternator (16-11)
  • AC compressor (bleed air conditioning first) (55-62)
  • turbo (see 11a-9-1)
  • inlet manifold (see 11a-11-1)
  • steering pump
  • Note: ok to leave turbo and injector pump on engine
5. unbolt/disconnect gearbox in place.
  • support gearbox as close as possible to existing position (easier to line up when refitting engine).
  •  There is an access panel that allows you to undo the bolts that connect the drive plate to the torque converter
  • remove inspection cover on bell housing (engine side)
  • remove bolts holding flex plate to converter (crank engine over by hand to get at all of them)
  • Note: you do not have to drop the gearbox to reach the two top bell housing bolts, you will however need 2 x 500 extension bars or a combination of sizes to make up an extension bar of approx 800mm OR easiest removal is from rear by leaving drive shafts etc set up and dropping rear auto mounts, that drops engine down so they are accessible, once un-done remount rear gearbox up

5a. Or instead of 5 remove engine, gearbox and front transfer box (one long 7′ section – no gearbox bolts to undo or drive shaft re-alignment)

Pull engine out with a hoist

  • ??? pull engine straight out without lifting until it is free of the gearbox, makes it easier to put engine back in as all you have to do is align the engine onto the engine mounts (gives the correct angle).
  • definitely unbolt the torque converter first, makes life a whole lot simpler, + no need for a new seal + no loss of TXM fluid
  • When removing engine, be careful of a front diff sensor that the bell housing will fall/lower and rest on, put something in to protect the sensor

6. Possible problems to look for after engine is pulled.

  • seized pistons,
  • broken turbo shaft,
  • broken timing chain
7. On re-assembly
  • Install an EGR Blanking plate between the EGR And the manifold in place of the gasket


  1. http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20474&sid=c5d89213f0cd48266509f221e57ba5c8
  2. http://delicaclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=16250&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=&sid=cb73f756889290c02bfff72626c5a050
  3. http://www.delicaclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=7650
  4. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-elVpkkaFGY


Delica Roadtrip; California or Bust?

I think the engine in the Delica van is seized.

Long story short did an oil change on the Delica a few days before we were to leave on our next planned road trip. Obviously was not paying attention … the gasket from the old filter did not come off with the filter … it stayed on the filter housing attached to the van. I did not realize this at the time … nor did the new filter feel any different when it was screwed on. I did not check the old filter for the gasket … I do not think I will be forgetting that check again.  As usual I idled the van in the shop prior to replacing the skid plates and nothing leaked.

 On tuesday Stephen and I left on our California road trip.  We were driving to Berkley, California so I could go to a workshop about the gasifier I am assembling, and then we were going to spend a few days visiting in the area.  We had converted the van so we could sleep in the back and we were carrying enough oil to get us there and about half of the way back.
At highway speeds the doubled gasket blew and the engine lost all of its oil within 5 kilometres of the house. I am guessing if I had reacted faster to the engine warning light (I had under a minute of warning; check engine light came on but nothing else … the engine temperature read fine) I would be better off right now. There was a bang from the engine (not good), some swearing from me (Stephen sat very still) and the van immediately lost power.

I got the van off the highway and investigated; oil everywhere on the undercarriage, and the coolant was boiling … really not good.  Once I figured out what had happened I re-sealed the oil filter (with just one o-ring), replaced the oil and tried to crank the engine (all on the side of the highway). It cranked briefly and then it seized … I tried the starter again and it just clicked. We were towed back to the house by North River Towing … not my proudest moment … looking back I wish I had a picture of it.  I still have not confirmed how badly damaged the engine is, but I am guessing minimally the engine needs to be pulled and worked on … if not replaced.

Still trying to deny that I just did this.

Does anybody know how to pull the engine on a Delica L400?